Rachel Roddy’s recipe for braised chicken with grapes, wine and vinegar – A kitchen in Rome
Firm, sweet grapes with thin skins truly elevate this braised chicken dish to one of my all-time favorites. Recently, I had a conversation with chef Rachel Roddy about her culinary inspirations and her fondness for a particular grape variety known as pizzutella.
“Pizzutella grapes are really fascinating,” she explains. “The name comes from their unique shape—they’re cylindrical and taper to a point, which is reflected in the dialect meaning of ‘pizzutella,’ or ‘little point.’ In Italy, they’re widely cultivated and can have different forms and names, like uva corna or minnevacca, depending on the region. In Spain, you would call them dedo de dama, which translates to ‘lady fingers’ in California, and in Algeria, they’re known as nab el djemel, or ‘camel tooth.’ Each of these names highlights a unique characteristic of the grape.”
Roddy reminisces about her experiences with pizzutella: “They were Carla Tomasi’s favorites. She would buy them after school and snack on them between classes,” she recalls with a smile. “That memory really captures what these grapes are all about—they’re just delicious, especially the seedless varieties. But I actually prefer the additional flavor and crunch of the seeds.”
When discussing how she incorporates pizzutella into her cooking, Roddy adds, “I’ve been able to find them fresh all week at my local supermarket, which inspired my latest recipe—a modern take on pollo alla cacciatora, or hunter’s chicken. It’s a rustic dish that has been cherished for generations.”
As for the cooking process, she explains, “You start by browning the chicken and adding seasonings before covering everything with wine to let it simmer. The grapes are introduced toward the end, allowing them to soften while maintaining their essence in the thick, slightly sweetened sauce.”
Although renowned food writer Jane Grigson suggests peeling and pitting grapes for cooking, Roddy has a different take. “I love using the skins when I pair grapes with meats like oxtail or sausages—the skins add great tannins and help the meat hold its shape. I wouldn’t ask anyone to peel them for me unless the skins are exceptionally thick. The seeds don’t bother me, but if someone prefers seedless grapes, just halving them works perfectly.”
Roddy also shares what she recommends serving alongside the dish. “Once everything is cooked down to a rich gravy, it pairs wonderfully with boiled potatoes, mashed potatoes, rice, or a nice crusty bread.”
Before wrapping up, she playfully challenges Grigson’s views on jiggly jelly. “While I do enjoy colorful jelly, her adult grape jelly with Grand Marnier and cream has my attention—I would even be willing to peel my pizzutella for that.”
As she concludes, Roddy shares her go-to recipe for braised chicken with grapes, wine, and vinegar, hoping that others will enjoy the combination as much as she does.
