Nigel Slater’s recipes for kale, apple and peanuts, and pear shortcake tart

In a recent conversation with Nigel Slater, he shared his seasonal inspirations as autumn leaves begin to fall.

“I’ve been indulging in various types of apples lately. There’s something satisfying about grabbing a paper bag of them without even looking, and just enjoying the crunch as I walk home from the store,” he explains. “Every autumn, my craving for the unique flavors of local apple varieties is as reliable as the leaves dropping. I cherish the fleeting appearance of good russets, which are as tough as Blackpool rock, along with other rarities like Ashmead’s Kernel and Worcester Pearmain. If luck is on my side, I might even come across the crisp, ruby-fleshed Red Devil.”

This week, Nigel incorporated apples into two salads. “In the first salad, I used Cox’s apples with their vibrant orange and russet hues, adding a sharp crunch to a bed of young kale drizzled with roasted peanut dressing. Later, I featured some chilled Worcesters in a simpler salad alongside walnuts, chicory, and Lancashire cheese, all dressed with walnut oil. I kept the skins on for a rustic touch and dressed the fruits lightly, preserving their bright colors.”

The arrival of new season pears in his kitchen has also been a highlight for Nigel. “A few weeks ago, I enjoyed the first one—a rough-skinned Conference pear, crisp as ice, paired with chunks of sweet Irish Coolea cheese, reminiscent of well-aged Gouda. After that, I whipped up a simple pear tart using poached pears and a shortcake-like pastry—a bit of a cheat, but delicious nonetheless.”

Unfortunately, the late, damp spring resulted in a single, stunning Doyenne du Comice pear from his espalier outside the kitchen. “I barely spotted any bees, butterflies, or wasps during flowering, so I expected a smaller yield, and that’s exactly what I got. But this solitary pear will be savored with great respect, its juicy, luscious flesh treated like a feast. I might even bring out a fruit knife and linen napkin for it.”

Nigel also shared a recipe for a kale, apple, and peanut salad. “Young curly kale leaves have a sweet and nutty flavor that’s far less pungent than the larger leaves.” His recipe serves three and can be prepared in just 30 minutes.

For the dressing, you need:
– 2 tbsp crunchy peanut butter
– 2 tbsp honey
– 1 tsp roasted sesame oil
– 1 tbsp tamari soy sauce
– 2 tbsp lemon juice

To the salad, add:
– 2 large handfuls of kale leaves
– 2-3 dessert apples
– 250g gammon (optional), thickly sliced
– 50g salted and roasted peanuts

Nigel starts by mixing the peanut butter, honey, and sesame oil, then incorporates the soy sauce and adds lemon juice to taste. After washing and tearing the kale leaves, he slices the apples and tosses everything together with the dressing. A quick grill of the gammon adds a savory touch before it’s combined with the kale and peanuts.

He also describes a simple pear shortcake tart recipe that requires no complicated pastry techniques. “All you need are pears, sweet pastry, and tart jam,” he says. “I poached the pears myself, which took about 30 minutes. And while making the tart from scratch is rewarding, using bottled or canned pears is a valid shortcut if you’re pressed for time.”

The recipe serves six and takes about two hours to complete. Ingredients and steps include poaching pears, making a straightforward pastry, and baking until golden, followed by layering the pears on top and glazing with apricot jam.

Nigel emphasizes the pleasure of enjoying this tart warm with ice cream or cream.

To catch more of Nigel’s culinary musings, you can follow him on Instagram @NigelSlater.