Hohhot Mutton Shaomai- -Goubuli- outside the Great Wall relieves homesickness in one bite

As the chilly morning air settles over Hohhot, the capital of Inner Mongolia, at 6 AM on an autumn day, the bustling sound of chatter draws people into a local steamed dumpling restaurant. Here, tables are piled high with steaming hot lamb shao mai, paired with a pot of rich, locally-sourced brick tea, signaling the start of a beloved Hohhot breakfast tradition.

Lamb shao mai, a traditional delicacy, has historical roots dating back to 1572, when the Ming Dynasty established the city of Guihua Cheng in Hohhot. At that time, tea houses served brick tea alongside a type of lamb-filled snack known as “shao mai.” Over the years, this delicious treat gained popularity across the country, eventually evolving into its current name.

Recently, lamb shao mai gained national fame when a food blogger documented their experience of eating 80 dumplings in one sitting, making waves on social media. This incident attracted legions of influencers, celebrities, and tourists eager to experience the dish, often finding themselves overwhelmed by the flavors. Many southern visitors shared their surprise after ordering just a modest portion, only to realize that one serving was barely enough.

In Hohhot’s well-known snack street “Kuanxiangzi,” Bai Junren, who has been running a shao mai restaurant for over 30 years, explains the local serving style. Unlike other regions, shao mai here is sold by weight, with one serving equaling eight dumplings.

Bai expands on the unique preparation process: “Using one pound of flour, we can make enough dough for about 80 shao mai. The weight refers to the dry flour, not the dumplings themselves. Generally, one serving provides just the right amount—a satisfying portion without feeling too full.”

The dumplings themselves are beautifully crafted—shaped like pomegranates, with a delicately thin skin and a translucent, shiny appearance. Huo Jinling, a 62-year-old fourth-generation shao mai artisan, meticulously arranges her dumplings, which resemble blooming peonies, in the steamer.

Huo notes that the quality of shao mai can often be assessed by their appearance. “If you can lift it like a lantern and set it down like a plate, it’s a good sign,” she says. Creating these dumplings requires skill and precision, particularly in shaping the dough. The dough needs to be rolled and pleated expertly, with the perfect technique resulting in 32 to 36 folds without any tears.

Once prepared, diners can choose between steaming or frying their shao mai. Huo emphasizes that the steaming process requires precise timing: when done correctly, the dumplings emerge bright and chewy, with fragrant fillings. Frying, on the other hand, needs a slower process to achieve a crispy exterior while maintaining tender meat inside.

As the saying goes, “hot food beats out three meals,” so shao mai is best enjoyed fresh from the steamer. With a gentle bite, the savory juices release, creating a delightful dance of flavors on the palate, combining succulent grassland lamb with aromatic local green onions and sesame oil.

Wang Zhiqiang, the secretary-general of the Inner Mongolia Shao Mai Culture Committee, stresses the importance of pairing shao mai with piping hot brick tea. “It helps with digestion and balances the richness of the dumplings. As they say, ‘tea should be sipped thoroughly, and conversations should never be rushed,’ making for a perfect meal.”

In 2016, Hohhot established a “China Shao Mai Food Street,” which has since become a hotspot for both locals and visitors. The annual Shao Mai Culture Festival showcases the culinary arts, with competitions and cultural exhibitions drawing in food enthusiasts.

Currently, Hohhot boasts around 3,000 shao mai eateries, serving approximately 100,000 customers daily. The offerings extend beyond just lamb, with creative variations available that include vegetarian, mixed fillings, and local specialties. Thanks to well-coordinated cold chain logistics, frozen shao mai are now shipped globally, yielding an impressive annual output value of around 60 billion yuan.

Recently, a social media user spotted a restaurant in the U.S. offering lamb shao mai as a signature dish, and customers couldn’t help but exclaim, “That’s the taste!” Whether at a lantern festival in Australia or the streets of Berlin, the flavor of Hohhot’s lamb shao mai captivates food lovers around the world.

Wang believes that while nostalgia may seem distant, the tastes of Hohhot are close at hand. “Lamb shao mai isn’t just food; it represents a culture and an emotion. It allows those far from home and visitors longing for the grasslands to savor the essence of the vast and welcoming prairie.”