Ham hock, Guinness bread, grilled mackerel- recipes from the Cafe Cecilia cookbook

Irish chef Max Rocha reflects on the pressures of sudden success with his acclaimed London restaurant, Cafe Cecilia. In our conversation, he discusses the journey of launching his eatery, known for its signature deep-fried bread and butter pudding, and how he’s come to terms with the weight of expectations.

Max, it’s been an incredible journey since you opened Cafe Cecilia in August 2021. What were some of your initial fears about launching your own restaurant?

“Honestly, the biggest fear was that the opening would be a total flop,” he says, reminiscing about that whirlwind first year filled with rave reviews and celebrity diners. “When it became an instant success, it was overwhelming. Nigella Lawson even praised our deep-fried bread and butter pudding! It felt like everyone wanted to be there, but I found myself under tremendous stress.”

Given your impressive background, having worked in some of London’s top restaurants like Spring and the River Cafe, did that experience prepare you for the challenge of running your own kitchen?

“Not at all,” he admits candidly. “Even though I had worked with some amazing chefs, I realized I wasn’t ready to lead my own team at just 32. My family has always been incredibly supportive, but with a designer dad and a sister in the fashion world, I felt this intense pressure to succeed. I wanted to match their accomplishments, and that pushed me even harder.”

The long hours took a toll on him. “I was trying to handle everything, and frankly, I turned to drinking to cope. I wasn’t out partying or anything, but I wasn’t fully present with my staff either. It spiraled when the stress got too much.”

Then came a turning point. After a challenging year, he took a break and returned with a new mindset. “I realized I needed to focus on my health and did something about it. I stopped drinking and using substances about two years ago, and it’s made a huge difference. I’m no longer nervous about people knowing that. I just want to create a better environment for myself and my staff.”

With a commitment to exercise helping shift his focus, Rocha is now more concerned about running marathons than keeping up with the fast-paced demands of the kitchen.

As Cafe Cecilia continues to thrive, bustling at all hours, its reputation among London’s fashion elite remains strong. During my visit, I witnessed families enjoying onglet and chips while a chic couple savored poached cod with summer vegetables. The servers, dressed in sophisticated Simone Rocha shirts, added to the stylish atmosphere.

This month, you’re releasing the Cafe Cecilia cookbook. What can readers expect from it?

“It features some of the restaurant’s greatest hits,” he explains with enthusiasm. “The first chapter is all about Guinness bread, a recipe from my mother, Odette, who instilled my love for food growing up in Dublin. She also consults on the menu now.”

The cookbook also has an appealing chapter dedicated to pasta, which he honed at a trattoria in Copenhagen, alongside popular recipes like sage and anchovy fritti that regulars rave about. “The book marries British and French cuisine, showcasing dishes like chicken and leek pie alongside pig’s head croquettes. The beauty of it is in the simplicity; many recipes have fewer than ten ingredients.”

Max exudes enthusiasm, recalling his early days in the kitchen. “I remember being so unprepared for the scale of Cafe Cecilia’s success. Now, with a thriving business and a book coming out, I feel incredibly fortunate.”

Despite his achievements, he remains humble. In the cookbook, he chose to highlight his grandmothers, particularly Cecilia, after whom the restaurant is named. “She saved money for my dad to move to London when he was just 16. Without her, none of us would be here today.”

As we wrap up, I ask if he’s considering expanding Cafe Cecilia. “I once said no way, but I can’t deny the excitement of new possibilities. I think about fine dining or opening a diner with a rock’n’roll twist. I even dream of locations in Dublin or New York. But right now, I want to focus on making Cafe Cecilia the best it can be for the next five years before taking any big steps.”