Dongxiwen – He Feifei- Why did coffee take root in Yunnan, China-

On September 23, during the China-Africa Cooperation Forum Summit, Yunnan coffee captured the attention of guests from Africa. How did coffee, a beverage with its roots in Africa, manage to flourish in Yunnan, China, thousands of miles away? What has been the impact of China’s growing coffee industry on the global coffee supply chain and cultural exchanges? In a recent exclusive interview, Professor He Feifei, an associate professor at the College of Agriculture at Yunnan University and a standing director of the Yunnan Specialty Coffee Association, shed light on these questions.

**CNS Reporter:** Can you explain how coffee found its way to Yunnan and how it became a significant coffee-producing region in the world?

**He Feifei:** Coffee is beloved worldwide, and it’s well-known that its origins trace back to Ethiopia, Africa. As a result of colonial expansion, cross-border trade, and migrations, coffee spread across continents. In 1884, British merchants brought coffee seedlings to Taiwan, which soon led to the establishment of plantations in regions like Ruili, Binchuan, Wenchang in Hainan, and Xiamen in Fujian. While there are varying accounts about how coffee arrived in Yunnan, the most widely accepted narrative dates back to 1893. It was then that residents near the border began cultivating coffee after bringing it from Myanmar.

In the 1950s, driven by government support to develop the tropical economy, China’s coffee industry began taking shape. Notably, in 1952, Malaysian expatriates created the “Xinglong Overseas Chinese Collective Farm” in Hainan for coffee cultivation. That same year, experts from the Yunnan Agricultural Academy sourced coffee from border residents in Dehong and expanded plantings to Mangshi and later Baoshan, marking the beginning of large-scale cultivation. By 1958, Baoshan’s Lujiang small coffee beans made their way to the London market and received “first-class quality” recognition. By 2023, China had overtaken the U.S. in the number of branded coffee shops, with per capita coffee consumption tripling from 2010 to 2022.

Notably, both Yunnan and Ethiopia share high altitudes and a diverse, vertically changing climate, making them ideal for coffee cultivation. In the early 1990s, Nestlé initiated a coffee plantation project in Yunnan, becoming one of the first foreign investors in the region. With significant support from local governments, the Yunnan coffee industry blossomed, leading to the rise of numerous leading coffee planting and processing companies. By 2023, Yunnan accounted for over 98% of China’s coffee planting area and production. Recently, as the focus has shifted towards premium coffee development, many Yunnan coffee beans have garnered awards in international competitions, gaining recognition on the global stage.

**CNS Reporter:** Coffee is one of the three major beverages worldwide. What role does it play in cultural exchanges and human interactions, beyond being a traded commodity?

**He Feifei:** The journey of coffee has significantly contributed to cultural exchanges and the movement of people across nations. The coffee industry encompasses an extensive supply chain, including planting, processing, roasting, packaging, brewing, and branding. As coffee circulates, it brings along related labor, technical standards, and developmental concepts. For example, Arabica coffee, which began in Ethiopia, spread to Yemen, where its diverse growing environments transformed its flavor, resulting in a rich chocolate note. Mocha coffee, named after Yemen’s trading port, is now often associated with lattes containing chocolate.

Moreover, to discover higher-quality coffee beans, the profession of “coffee scouts” has emerged, with individuals traveling to various coffee-growing regions. The Chinese coffee brand “Luckin Coffee” even organized a “Global Bean-Searching Tour,” which visited renowned coffee origins in Ethiopia, Panama, and Indonesia, culminating in a trip to Yunnan in March 2024. This way, coffee acts as a medium for cultural exchange, fostering a deeper understanding of diverse customs across nations and regions.

Cafes have also become social hubs—take Caffè Greco in Rome, once frequented by literary giants like Dickens and Mark Twain, now attracting tourists. The industrial development and circulation of coffee have not only spurred significant economic growth but also cultivated unique coffee cultures worldwide, encouraging the blending and appreciation of different civilizations.

**CNS Reporter:** How has the evolution of the coffee industry influenced coffee culture in China?

**He Feifei:** I have relatives working in Baoshan’s Lujiang area, an important coffee-producing region in Yunnan. I remember visiting in the early 1990s, when coffee preparation was quite basic—there were no brewing tools, and coffee grounds were boiled in water without precise ratios, relying solely on instinct. While the aroma during brewing was inviting, the taste was often quite bitter, heavily sweetened with sugar. At that time, Chinese coffee farmers were primarily growing coffee beans without a well-established coffee-drinking culture.

The development of Chinese coffee culture is closely linked to the country’s economic growth. In the 1980s, Nestlé introduced “1+2” instant coffee to China, marking the inception of the modern coffee market and introducing coffee to many for the first time. As the 21st century progressed and China’s economy soared, living standards improved, leading consumers to seek higher quality coffee beyond traditional instant options. Yunnan coffee, thanks to its favorable natural conditions, offers uniquely robust flavors that aren’t bitter, aromatic yet not overwhelming, with a slight fruity acidity. With strong government backing, Yunnan has pushed towards premium quality, implementing standardized production methods throughout planting, harvesting, initial processing, and advanced processing, thereby consistently elevating coffee quality. Today, Yunnan stands out as one of the most comprehensive and developed regions within China’s coffee industry.

Interestingly, the expression of coffee culture varies markedly between production regions and consumption areas. In Yunnan’s coffee-producing areas, where diverse ethnic groups reside, coffee is ingeniously woven into daily life. You can enjoy coffee in a Dai bamboo house, purchase it at flower and vegetable markets, or indulge in coffee feasts made with coffee leaves and blossoms, alongside innovative blends featuring local ingredients like milk fan and black truffles. In contrast, major urban consumption areas boast trendy, sophisticated independent coffee shops that embody urban lifestyles, many of which are blending “New Chinese” coffee by infusing traditional components like tea and bean juice, leaving consumers impressed. The varied cultural expressions of coffee in China reflect a tradition of inclusivity and eclecticism, highlighting coffee and its culture in an exciting new light.

**CNS Reporter:** What emerging trends are shaping China’s coffee industry and culture, and what implications could these have for Africa and the global coffee market?

**He Feifei:** To begin with, China is rapidly developing a massive coffee consumption market. By 2023, the coffee market size in China reached an impressive 265.4 billion yuan, with a compounded annual growth rate of 17.14% over the last three years. Projections indicate that by the end of 2024, this market could expand to 313.3 billion yuan. Many coffee-producing countries are closely monitoring the Chinese market; for instance, Brazil exported 422,000 bags of coffee to China in 2022, and this figure skyrocketed to 1.5 million bags in 2023, representing unprecedented growth for Brazil’s coffee industry.

Simultaneously, China’s coffee sector is actively moving towards premiumization, with all components of the supply chain increasingly concentrating on standardization and refinement, boosting international competitiveness.

In this environment, collaborating with coffee-producing regions abroad presents a mutually beneficial opportunity. For example, while Africa faces various developmental challenges, it possesses rich coffee genetic resources, which is a significant advantage. I’m currently involved in a project focusing on coffee weather index insurance design, preference analysis, and policy impact evaluation in collaboration with Ethiopia, aimed at benefiting both countries. Additionally, Yunnan University has developed coffee tissue culture regeneration systems and genetic modification systems to improve drought resistance and cold tolerance. We are investigating gene editing technologies for molecular enhancements in coffee, ultimately striving to establish a system for rapid improvements in agronomic traits. Drawing from this research, Yunnan can partner with other coffee-producing regions to bolster genetic resources and create superior coffee varieties, promoting sustainable growth in the global coffee industry.